It’s certainly true that the lack of proper facial hygiene may encourage the development of spots and worsen acne, which means adopting a regular skincare discipline that will pay off in the long run—don’t expect miracle to happen overnight.
A daily cleansing and moisturizing routine with products that are specifically for acne and blemishes is a must. Regular cleansing removes the dead skin cells on the surface and the excess oiliness – however, it’s important not to overdo this with products that are too harsh or by scrubbing vigorously as the skin’s response will be to produce more oils to combat dryness and irritation and thereby create a vicious cycle.
The most effective skin routine, which you should carry out when you wake up and just before you go to bed is cleanse – tonic – moisturize. And twice a week use a gentle exfoliant with salicylic acid.
You can also apply topical over-the-counter creams and even take oral medication but make sure you read the instructions carefully to ensure you use them properly and know what results to expect and in what time frame. Generally, sufferers need to try out a few different treatments until they find the right one for them. However, there are some proven ingredients that work across the board and can be found in the most effective treatments.
These are:
- Benzoyl peroxide: the most popular over-the-counter acne cream works by targeting the bacteria in the base of the follicle and reducing the inflammation. This in turn loosens the build-up of pus in both blackheads and whiteheads and dries out the pore, acting as an exfoliant. To-date, it is the most effective topical anti-bacterial agent on the market and available in different concentrations in different topical creams; however, its very effectiveness is due to the fact that it is a harsh chemical and can produce an allergic reaction in some people. It’s always wise to consult a dermatologist before embarking on a course of treatment to see which is the best concentration for your particular condition.
- Salicylic acid: best for mild acne and sensitive skin, it’s usually found in cleansers as an ingredient to exfoliate the skin’s dead surface cells and prepare the skin for other acne treatments. It breaks down the protein keratin holding the skin cells together, and eventually loosens the whiteheads and blackheads, which are exfoliated, giving way to the new healthier skin. Unlike Benzoyl Peroxide, it does not work in the base of the follicles, and is far more mild, taking an average of 3 months to provide visible effects. It is less effective in the case of larger inflammatory lesions and works best as part of a skincare routine to keep the follicles free of clogging.
- Glycolic acid: one of the Alphahydroxy Acids (AHAs) which are often used as ingredients in exfoliating or peeling treatments, depending on the concentration. They are natural acids which occur in fruit, milk, sugar and certain plants. Glycolic acid comes from the sugar cane plant and is the most popular AHA for anti-acne treatments. It works by dissolving the substance binding together dry dead skin cell clumps, peeling away the uppermost layer of these to make way for the new, healthy skin cells rising up from the basal skin layers to the surface. Of the AHAs, Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule and thus penetrates best as well as having moisturizing properties which help counter the dryness produced by other acne treatments and alcohol-based products.
The majority of people find that the most effective combination is to use a cleanser with salicylic or glycolic acid, an alcohol-free toner that doesn’t dry out the skin, and finally a benzoyl product which you can apply and leave on underneath a gentle moisturizer or make-up.
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